Quick Munich Malts

I have a bit of Dark Munich left, and have been putting bits of it in my beers for a little extra boost. So I figured, why not a quick blurb on this Swaens Dark and other Munich Malts in general.

As the name implies, Munich malt was once much more regional specific to European areas like Germany and surrounding areas,, but not because the grain its self is special or different somehow, but rather the way it is processed.

It’s usually a 2row but there are 6row versions. But what makes Munich different from your normal Pilsner or regular 2 row base malts is Munich keeps a much higher moisture content before the kilning process begins, Kinda sorta like a crystal malt,, but not as extreme.

By keeping more moisture in the grain at kilning, Munich gets very different flavor, and color traits than other base malts. 

While most 2 row malts are in the 3-4 SRM range, Munich is generally in the 5-7-10 range. Now 20,, even 30 SRM versions are becoming available. And each one of these variations brings subtle changes to that bready, grainy malty flavors and aromas that are the trademark of Munich 

And those changes generally get more intense the darker you go.

For example, this Swaens Dark is labeled as only 8 but it really has somewhat of a coco flavor to it that not present in the 5.

Lighter versions have no problem being used as 100% of a grain bill because they still retain enough diastatic power to fully convert their starches into the sugars we need.

However, the darker versions have much lower power and can struggle to fully convert, so they are more often used with a lighter base malt for conversion. 

And thats what I recently found out about this Dark Munich. This Swaen Dark is labeled as only 8 Lovibond,, but apparently it is a bit lower in power because I have been doing smash beers with it and not getting quite the numbers I should. So from now on though, I’m gonna add some regular two row with it when I use it as the main grain.

I could not find any actual numbers anywhere,, but every single site that I looked at mentions the lower power. 

A little goes a long way with these darker Munichs, so they are usually used to secondarily add depths or layers of flavor to your grain bills. Not “usually” the main grain, but German style beers such as Oktoberfests, Bocks, Marzens and the like are famous for their heavy Munich use, but those are far before the newer 20 and 30 varieties arrived. But then again, nearly every style of beer out there can use it to some degree for a bit of its malty goodness. 

And now today with nearly every Maltster out there making a version of Munich malt,, the varieties and variations are endless.

I don’t exactly know what I’m gonna brew next with it, or what the proportion will be,, but for now,,, Here is a quick and easy Munich Smash recipe to get a feel for the general characteristics of the Munich malt.

And if you go to brewing with Briess.com in the recipe section, you will find a recipe that uses the Dark Munich Dark Munich Amber

Stay tuned and keep brewing

Learn to Brew Day Saison

When the Saisons started showing up on shelves I wasn’t a fan of them. Those yeast profiles just were not my thing. But the rest of the dryness, sometimes spiciness really stuck out for me. And I eventually found that I kinda liked them.


So I have brewed a few here and there, and changed some things to get back to where I like this style, since its very hard to find a plain ol’ Saison nowadays. No fruits, no spices, no nothing.

I use a regular old US two row malt. I think it lets the other things like the wheat and Saaz hops poke through a little more. Rye malt is great here as well, just don’t get crazy with it. It would cover up a lot in this bare bones version. 


Get your bittering somewhere in the 25-30 range. Been using Tettnang hops for my smaller batches or Target hops for bigger batches just because of the bigger bang for the buck Alpha. These give a decent amount of that earthy Saison thing without standing out. Saaz hops for the late editions is almost mandatory for me. They seem to work best if kept around the 10-15 minute range.

And probably the most important ingredient in a Saison…the yeast. I’m not one for the big blasts of banana, so I stick with the Belle Saison dry yeast. It only has a bit of background banana, but it gets almost a black pepper and lemon/orange thing going when purposely underpitched. Ferments fairly dry, but not nutz. But it doesnt like to clear all that well. But hey,, thats fine in this beer!

I wouldn’t usually even consider adding fruit, but for some reason raspberry just feels like it would work here. Small amounts though. Raspberry is pretty powerful and this is a very light profiled recipe.

Any way,,, this is what I’ll be brewing this Saturday for the 2020 “Learn to Brew Day” Check out my gallon version.

3 gallon Saison OG 1.054, 30 IBU  
-5 lbs US 2 row
-½ lb crystal 10L
-½ lb  wheat malt red or white (malt,, not flaked wheat)
-1oz tettnang hops @60
-1oz Saaz at 10 min
-¼ packet Belle Saison yeast. (we are trying to stress it a bit for character. Don’t worry, that’s more than enough yeast)
Mash at 150. Ferment a bit higher than normal.. 70F

May not be “traditional” in a strict sense, but it’s what I want in a Saison.

Favorites: UK style hop


I think all of us brewers have a favorite ingredient to use. A hop that you just love to use, or that goto yeast that you grab every time.

For favorite grain and yeast, my picks are pretty clear,, but I’m gonna save those for a  later post. Today it’s the hops that I wanna look at.

But I can’t seem to narrow it down to one overall favorite hop. So I’m gonna cheat and do three hops. One for each region of beers I like best. An American Hop, a German hop, and what I’m going to use today, a British hop.

My pick for favorite British/UK style hop has got to be the Golding, or more specific, East Kent Golding to sound more snooty. The difference between the two really is negligible, and that gap widens and contracts each season or weather event.

UK Goldings are a big player in the UK beer styles. Much more in the late editions than say,,, Fuggles. Goldings have that earthy, noble hop characteristic that most people associate with the British style beers. I wouldn’t say pungent,, but there is something very faint like that going on. And they have a more rounded, or softer feel, in the bittering perception as compared with hops of similar Alpha acids.

I would say from my experience with them is that the Golding hop is a bit more pronounced in the earthyness and sometimes floral than your Fuggles, which can lean towards a citrusy note if used later in the boil.
Those two flavor points play good together and thats why you see them used together so much, and could be why Fuggles is sometimes described as dirt, when it’s infact probably the Goldings that’s it’s often pared with.

The US variety on the other hand starts moving the profile slightly. Fruitier and scant traces of citrus start showing up more than the earthy tones. Side by side with the UK versions, they are different animals, almost like the before mentioned mix of Goldings and Fuggles.

As far as the numbers go, your looking at a average 4-5% alpha 3ish% beta. So not a super bittering hop, and staying close to the  “noble ish” ratio.

I know a few brewers that grow them here in NE wisconsin and they have had widely varying luck. Some can get bushels of cones and 50 foot vines, while the next guy with roots taken from the same plants a few miles away can barely get them to grow.

It’s really a standout taste and aroma profile. So give the a shot.  Here is a proven 9stripe recipe to get ya going.

5 gallon Special Bitter. Mash at 152F