My Kviek Uses

Seems like out of nowhere Kviek yeast blasted onto the radar of homebrewers and now craftbrewers. Its the Norwegian Farmhouse yeast that has crazy temperature tolerances.


Brewers were claiming it to be producing clean ales and even “lagers” at temps reaching into the 90sF or even higher! And being done in as little as two days.

Sounds almost too good to be true. But the reports kept coming. So I finally gave it a few tries. My garage would be the perfect place to let it rip at 90 degrees. 

The best way to test new ingredients is of course to keep them as simple as possible, so a SmaSh beer (Single Malt and Single Hop) fits perfectly. I went with Munich malt, Magnum hops, and Hornindal Kviek.
This was August. Middle of summer. My garage, and everything else is in the 90s now. I get the beer brewed and the liquid Kviek pitched. Just have to wait for the “explosion” that’s supposed to happen.

Fizzle… Nadda. First day there was nothing. You could just see the yeast clump laying on the bottom of the carboy. Just as I had figured this was gonna work. I’ll just let it sit just to make sure. 

Day two was a completely different story. Nearly up and out of the 6.5 gallon carboy, and churning so hard the bench was rumbling. And then by day 3 it was nearly completely stopped. Day 4 everything dropped and halfway done clearing. Well,, as clear as Kviek gets. (More on that shortly)

Tasting notes from the first batch were just as people said it would be. Fruity and bright. No off flavors like you would expect from high temp ferment. But murky. Like a mud bomb went off in the carboy. And that yeast taste hung around in the keg for quite a while. But when it finally dropped it was very clean tasting. But never quite clear.

The second batch was Voss Kviek. Again a SmaSh, Munich, saaz, Voss. Again in the 90s
Pretty much right down the same stages as the Hornindal. A day of lag, then a day of violent ferment, then everything falls out and starts to clear by day 3. 

Same results. Fruity, but a different fruity this time. More like fruit salad, but bright. And again muddy looking. And still yeasty tasting until the keg drops clear.. or clearer. It don’t really become clear. Not as hazy as a New England, but close.

One thing to note is that this yeast makes a ton of sludge. There must be two inches of yeast at the bottom. And seeing that, I wanted to try and save some. And I did what I read the farmers did to save this yeast. Dry it.


I grabbed a spruce branch right off the tree and swabbed it in the yeast cake and hung it in the garage. At 90F and a ceiling fan, it dried very quickly.

The next batch I made the beer as normal, and just took this stick of dried yeast, which you can see is pretty small. Like 3 inches or so. And chucked in into the wort. 

This time we had activity going much sooner than pitching the liquid. But it did the same crazy ferment and drop as the other had.
Still dirty. But I’d say not as bad. But still it never really clears in the keg. Same tastes same aromas. 

Come to find out that alot of people are getting better ferments by really under pitching. Using ¼ packet. Seems to help with the lag and esters.

And drying the cake is really popular for saving this yeast. Spread it in a pan, let it dry, break into pieces, freeze till needed, then just pitch a few dry hunks.

This yeast has some good qualities to it for sure. Some might not like that its never clear, I don’t mind. And there are more and more varieties out almost weekly. 
There are many experiments that need to be done with these Kvieks, like the different profiles they give at different temps. Some say they are like having 3 different yeasts in the same package.

I’m gonna have to find out

Why an all in one system?

One of the biggest crazes (craze, not fad.. But fads could be a post all on its own…) right now are the all in one brewing systems. The GrainFather, Mash and Boil, Robobrew, Anvil Foundry… Seems everyone is putting some version of an electric system.

What they consist of is an 8ish gallon, 110v (some are starting to include 240) boil kettle, with a removable metal basket that you mash in. You do the mashing and boiling in the same vessel. So essentially, a stainless version of a Brew in a Bag. Each system comes with standard temp settings/controls, while each variety has its different features. From built in pumps, distilling addons and chillers depending on how you plan on using it, and of course,, how much you wanna spend.

Now I was very skeptical of these things when they first came out. But watching the Brits brew with their similar electric water boilers interested me enough to give one a try. I chose the Mash and Boil because I was only planning on using it to heat my mash waters and boil the wort in. I was going to continue to mash in my tun.

This plan works fantastic. With the timer I can have my water heated up and ready to go the minute I walk down stairs, Drain into my tun, and start heating sparge waters. But doing it this way does require a separate kettle to hold the wort while sparging before getting returned to the kettle to boil. Having all of the equipment any way,, this was fine with me.

However, I started to use the M&B for mashing as well. After figuring out that a mash bag in the tube helps drain and wrapping the entire thing in reflectix keeps heat in, and not to trust the onboard thermometer and manually check temps, I found that this system is very accurate, and very repeatable and quite easy to use especially in a small space.

Mash tube with bag

I think the basic system is pretty solid. You do need an extra kettle if you plan on sparging, possibly not if you are going no sparge. A chiller. Immersion is great, counterflows work as well. The pumps are optional, I do not use them. 

Normal brewing practices still apply here. You still need to pay attention. Make sure of your temps, sparging gives better efficiency, recirculating gets clearer wort. 

If these were around when I started decades ago, I might have started with one of these systems. I doubt that its cheaper than the burner/mashtun start up route, but if you are limited to electric brewing or have a small brew space, or just don’t wanna build your own equipment then these systems are for you.  

I for one am definitely buying another if the one I have now craps out. 

Foreign Extra brew notes

I need to get a few beers made soon. I seemed to have gotten far behind and have started to run extremely low on beers. That’s not good going into fall and winter. (It in fact just snowed a bit today!)

So this first one is a beer that I have brewed for a beerfest or homebrew showcase event, and I just loved this beer. 

Jagged: Forign Extra Stout. It was good, but I also think I could improve it. 

This post is going to be my notes and thoughts that I normally jot down for all of my beers. 

 

This is very helpful for me because while yes I tend to brew alot of repeat beers, I am also very spontaneous with them at the same time. Substituting things, adding things, correcting things on the fly. So I need to keep track of everything along the way or by the next day I would have no idea what I did. These notes really help me to see where things worked and where they didn’t, plus lets me remember odd things I did. So here we go. 

 I may have to add some commentary, as these notes are usually meant just for me, and may be unclear to others what I meant

——————————–

Jagged: Foreign Extra Stout

I wanted a stout that was like stouts used to be. One that you know is a stout. Not some half hearted attempt.

Going back to look at the last time I brewed this beer, I see that I used the Mash and Boil and I think I will again this time ads well, because 13 lbs is all I really can fit in my mash tun.

I also see that the review for the first batch already has the updated ingredient list of what I thought at the time of what it needed improved on, and not what I actually brewed for that day. That will be mostly what I am gonna go with.

I remember I felt it needed more roast. At 2 lbs already you would think that it would be enough. But I want more, so will be upping the Roast Barley and Chocolate malt by ½ pound each. 

If 3 lbs of black roasted grain isnt enough to rip yer face off, I don’t know what will. 

I see in the notes that I used 1.5 oz of magnum. I know those Magnum were getting old and probably were not up to their best bittering. Thought maybe the sharp bittering feel that Chinook gives, but because I’m raising the roast to OMG proportions, I’ll use Columbus instead.  I think I will get a better bittering and get that slightly basementy thing I’m looking for in a Foreign extra.

Jagged – 5 gallon 

  • 10lbs 2 row Am.
  • 1.5 lbs Roasted barley
  • 1.5 lbs chocolate malt (350srm)
  • *½ lb flaked oats
  • 1oz Columbus @60 15.9 AA
  • 1 oz cascade @15
  • Us 04 yeast.
  • Mash 154

Homebrew store was out of flaked barley, so I’ll sub in some flaked oats,, should be a good fit. No problems there.

I think I will mess with the water this time. Looking up on Brewers friend, I’m gonna use the London dark ale profile.

First though I gotta find my water volumes.

Looks like I will need 7.70 gallons total water. 

Thats about ½ gallon more than I can heat in the M&B at one time. 

Commentary: So what I so with my strike and sparge water usually is: 

  • find my total volume, 
  • Heat as much of it or all of it if possible at one time
  • Take out 2 gallons before mashing in and hold it for sparging later. Adding what ever more I need to in order to get my full volume

So in this case I need 7.7 gallons. I will heat 7 gallons of water in the M&B, take off 2 gallons. Mash into the 5 gallons in the kettle. To those 2 gallons I took off. I will add the rest of the .7 gallon and heat in smaller kettle to sparge temp.

Looking at the Brewer’s Friend water profile for London Dark ales, I think I will add ½ tsp each of gypsum and calcium chloride to my 7 gallons. 

That’s all the planning I need to do until this weekend, other than going to pick up my grain. Will continue of with the brew day notes then.

Set up the mash and boil for 160F for the morning.

Added ½ tsp gypsum and ½ tsp calcium chloride and ½ a campden tablet.

Going to mash in 5 gallons of the water. Basement and grain temp is 62F

Doughed in and was at 152F so hit the heat and recirc until 154F 

Used a pitcher to take wort from valve and pour back in over the grain. The tube isnt great about getting water back up into the grain while its in the kettle

Slightly over in preboil. Should be 6.6 gal  I’m at 6.8 ish.

Beersmith says I should be at 1.055 I’m at 1.052 very close.

Am going to boil a bit before starting timer. This should fix both numbers. These are close enough numbers where it would not matter much.

Really don’t seem to be boiling off that much. The boil is kinda slow today.

We had a little extra in the kettle and we were a bit short on gravity.

Supposed to be 1.062 and we are somewhere between 1.058 and 1.060.  Again.. Not far enough off for me to care.. But I could have boiled down more.

Pitched the yeast at 72F and will ferment at 63. 

Definitely looks Blaaaack.

We have good action 4 hours later. Looks good.