Philly Sour Wine

I won a bottle of wine base at one of our meetings a ways back. And I’m looking to do more “experiments” so I grabbed a packet of Philly Sour yeast to use with it.

I guess my plan is to let the Philly yeast do it’s souring, then pitch the 1118 to chew it down.

Doing the full 5 gallons. So thats the gallon of base plus 4 gallons of water. But I subbed out 3/4 gallons of the water for 3/4 gallons of grape juice. Just for another layer of flavor..plus it might help the souring part of the Philly.

I did do some nutrient at pitch. But there is usually some decent lag time with the Philly because it does two phases. Phase one is the souring, then after that the yeast part takes over and starts the fermenting. And that might take a day…. Or two. So I won’t start the rest of the nutrient program until the ferment actually starts.

My water out of the tap is 50F right now, so I warmed it up to 75F where I will be fermenting at. After getting everything mixed I had an OG of 23 Brix or 1.096. So if everything goes as planned we should be looking at a 12%ish wine.

Kviek numbers

This past cider “brew” had some interesting numbers. And by interesting, I mean confusing. I can only tell you the observations and reactions of what I have taken notes and measurements on.

I think we have all made a basic cider at one time or another. Apple juice, some sugar and some yeast. And we got a basic thin, dry as a bone cider. Some people like that, some don’t. Those that don’t usually do one or both of two things to get a sweeter cider.
-back sweeten
-use beer yeast

Back sweetening is just purposely killing off the yeast in order to add a sugar to sweeten it back up without it refermenting. Or adding an unfermentable sugar like lactose or Stevia (both completely change the flavor of said cider)

But by using the beer yeast, the yeast stops early enough to keep the cider sweet and have some body. Plus beer yeast has multiple profiles of flavor and aroma esters that one can play with.

So this last cider that I did I used the dried Voss Kviek yeast. Its generally regarded as a beer yeast. And most of us by now have used a Kviek and see that it does perform just as other beer yeasts do, with predictable numbers and flavors but with bigger temp ranges.
With the cider however we got something different. While the flavors were what we expected for the temp range that I used (60F which Voss Kviek gives stonefruit.. Peach, nectarine plum…) the final gravity was down to 0.996. Nothing like what a beer yeast would do. And thats intriguing for all kinds of reasons.

But first, let’s run through some of the numbers that different yeasts have done for me through the past 10 years or so. These will look very familiar to you.

Beer numbers
Nottingham: 1046-1010, 1050-1010, 1066-1012
US05: 1056-1008, 1066-1008
US04: 1058-1010, 1042-1008
Voss Kviek: 1052-1008, 1040-1008

Cider numbers
Nottingham: 1062-1010, 1070-1012
US05: 1060-1008
US04: 1080-1014
Voss Kviek: 1070-0.996


Note: Here is one of the problems I have here today. While I have made plenty of ciders with several different types of yeast for decades, I don’t have much for actual written numbers from long ago as I was more concerned with the beer side, and the cider numbers were reliable enough they didn’t warrant keeping track. Not until about 12 years ago when I started this blog did I start to jot down cider numbers. And even then just sporadically. Sure I took the measurements to see whats going on, but they were so reliable time after time that I just stopped writing them down. And only recently started with the Kviek so do not have a ton of available personal numbers.

As you can see, I fully expected to see similar cider numbers from the Kviek because they were producing similar numbers as the beer yeasts when used in beer. But I’m still trying to figure out why they didn’t carry over to cider.

The cider is the simple version of just the juice, a bit of sugar and yeast and is perfectly on par with the taste of a beer yeast cider. There’s the apple of course, and the Kviek added the peach. No off flavors or flaws, clear. A great cider. Just 10% and drier as compared to the expected 7ish% and sweeter
But why does it act so differently in a cider than in a beer?

With a quick look at these numbers, some would say its because there are all those unfermentables in the beer.
While this is true, it cannot be the only reason the yeast stops working when it does because the beer yeasts are pulling the same-ish numbers in the cider that doesn’t have those unfermentables, and it’s being force fed nutrients to keep them going but they still stop as predicted. Plus we would see much lower numbers if the Kviek was munching on something else in the beer that regular yeast does not.

Can’t be the abv. We have a smear of range here and they act the same, plus we know that ones I have listed can go much higher in abv and still follow predicted numbers with little or no help.

Ph? I didn’t measure, and it could be a possibility. But I would expect to see this reflected somehow in the Kviek beer numbers. Plus I think the sour people would have latched on to this by now.

I’m still not sure why Kviek seems to act differently in a cider environment than it does in beer. But It’s good to know that it does, so one can plan around it, and plan other things,, like wine?
If I am missing something obvious here, let me know. Until then I’m going to use what I have seen to my advantage.

Rebrew Series #1 Scottish 60 part 2

So between what I reread, and what I remember, the 60 was a decent beer. What I don’t remember was if it was actually a 60 style or not. I mean while it was an approximation with the caramelizations,,, would it have passed the BJCP guidelines? From what I am seeing, I am thinking no. The burning of the wort taste would probably get it dinged right away.

I think we were close though. I think all this recipe needed was some caramel malt. Since it is such a small beer, I don’t think much will be needed to make a big difference. So to the 6lbs of Maris Otter lets add ½ lb of 60L and a ½ lb of 80L. And even that sounds like too much.

Next is body.  I think we were close on this,, but it might have been just luck, as it sounded like I was guessing. But I’m going to use the same 152 mash, but also just a nip of carapils. This should keep a slight dryness to it, but keep something of a nice feel. 

Now the yeast is probably the biggest change. The old Coopers yeast chews down enough, but is too clean. The Windsor, while it has those esters, always seems to finish too sweet, and seems to stay in suspension. 
I think I’m going to go with US04. This will definitely chew down, give up those esters, and flocc out real good. 
But there is one thing I’m wondering that this yeast will do. Can I make it throw diacetyl? Ferment low,, like 55 so it don’t really clean up. 

And thats really all I think we will need to so lets brew this.

Brew day;
Final grain bill for today:

  • 6lbs Marris Otter
  • .5 lb 60L crystal
  • .5lb 80L crystal
  • .25 lb carapils
  • 2oz roasted barley
  • .75 oz Fuggles @ 60
  • .25 Fuggles @ 30
  • US04 yeast 
  • Mash @152F

I was going to use the same mash tun, but I forgot it was in the garage, so I used the Mash and Boil. Total water was 7.35 gallons,, which I heated all at one time. Used the over night timer so it was ready when I went down at 5am

Took off 2 gallons of that water and kept it for sparging. So we mashed into 5.35 gallons. With only 7lbs of grain it felt pretty thin. But when there is that much crystal malt, it smells pretty good.

I wasn’t sure if that small of a grain bill would hold temp as well, but had no problems. Lost only about half a degree with no other heat bursts.

Nothing of note happed with the rest of the brew so got it in the fermenter and going to ferment at 58. Hoping we can get that yeast to dump at least a little diacetyl for us.

This is a pretty small beer, OG was 1.048. A bit higher than the original, but not bad. So we should be able to get this kegged up in a couple weeks. I cant wait.

(as I am posting this the US04 is chugging away at 58F)